Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
